Welcome to Rocky Mountain Woodturners

We meet the Thursday after the first Tuesday of every month, 6:15 pm at Woodcraft in Loveland located at 3718 Draft Horse Drive in Loveland, CO..

You are invited to attend your first two meetings as our guest.

2020 Membership dues are $40, family $55 and student $25. Dues may be given to or mailed to Vice President, Jim Felton (921 Shoshoni, Cheyenne, WY 82009). We now offer online membership as well. Please click here for the membership page. Your membership card will get you a discount at several local turning supply retail stores (see the Resources page.)

News (see events page for more details)

YouTube Channel for Rocky Mountain Woodturners Videos

RMWT has set up a YouTube Channel to make our club demonstration videos available online. A tab is now in the menu bar. To view a video click here.

2020 EOG Grant Applications

The annual EOG process will conclude shortly, so please consider applying. See details at the following link: RMWT EOG Guidelines and Application(pdf).

Submit 2020 completed applications to EOG Chairman Todd Sheaman, todd.sheaman@gmail.com. If you have questions regarding RMWT EOG grants, please


Woodbank Guidelines now available. Must be read prior to use of the woodbank.

Upcoming Meetings

Meetings of the Rocky Mountain Woodturning Club are held monthly at Woodcraft in Loveland located at 3718 Draft Horse Drive in Loveland, CO. For directions go to Woodcraft/Loveland or call 970.292.5940. Click here for upcoming meetings and scheduled events.

Up Coming Meetings

Febuary 6, 2020

Tom Wirsing - Tulip Bowl using a Two Step Turning Process

Tulip Bowl, Demonstration Description:

This demonstration is all about creating beautiful flowing curves and perfectly smooth surfaces on a delicate thin-walled bowl.

The outside of the bowl is turned first, establishing its shape, proportions, and flowing curves, and a temporary foot with a dovetail recess is cut to allow the bowl to later be re-mounted to hollow out the interior. The exterior is then scraped with a negative-rake scraper to refine the curves and remove all vestiges of tearout. The exterior is sanded to a very fine finish before the bowl is turned over to hollow out the interior. After re-chucking the bowl with dovetail jaws, the interior is carefully hollowed out. This is a delicate operation and must be done gently to avoid blowing up the thin walls, which are turned down to a thickness of about 3 mm. The entire inside is scraped with a negative-rake scraper to refine curves and remove any tearout. The interior is then sanded to a very fine finish. The bowl is then turned back over and the temporary foot is turned away, creating a foot which is simply a continuation of the flowing curve of the exterior of the bowl. A small concave area is turned into the bottom of the bowl to form a foot of around 25 to 30 mm in diameter. The lower part of the bowl and the foot are then sanded to a fine finish. The bowl is finished with a Tung oil and urethane finish which is hand-rubbed to a fine satin sheen.

Two-Step Turning Process

I am an advocate of a two-step turning process. I use my gouges to shape my platters and bowls, removing 99% of the wood. But before sanding, I scrape the entire surface of the woodturning. I consider scraping the first step in sanding, but the scraper is far more accurate and delicate than sandpaper, getting the surface of the woodturning “perfect” before sanding begins. Many woodturners think any woodturner who scrapes his/her work is a poor woodturner. I believe any woodturner who sands too much is a poor woodturner. A negative-rake scraper, in the hands of a skilled woodturner, is far more accurate than sandpaper. Sandpaper never improves a woodturning. Sanding may get it smoother, but never better. Careful negative-rake scraping will improve the woodturning and reduce the amount of sanding required. I advocate the use of negative-rake scrapers. The cutting edge of my negative-rake scrapers is ground at 22.5 degrees top and bottom, so the nose of the scraper has an included angle of 45 degrees. The scraper is held flat (horizontally) on the tool rest and is therefore exceptionally easy to control. The negative rake on the top of the grind, and the fact that the scraper is held level (horizontally) on the tool rest, means the scraper does not self-feed and therefore will not “catch”, and is exceedingly easy to control. The burr on a negative-rake scraper is the only thing which cuts smoothly, so the scraper must be sharpened (reground) frequently to refresh the burr. In use, the scraper is held “burr up”, and the cutting edge is ever-so-gently floated across the surface of the wood, removing every ripple, dimple, and every speck of tear-out, even on difficult, highly figured hardwoods. If the scraper must be pushed into the wood to get it to cut, it is dull and will do more harm than good. Very delicate scraping with the burr of a freshly sharpened scraper is the correct technique for excellent results. Conventional wisdom says a scraper must be big and heavy to dampen vibration, and should be held “nose-down” to avoid catches. Because the nose of a negative-rake scraper is already ground “down”, the scraper can be held flat (horizontally) on the tool rest, and will not self-feed or catch. A negative-rake scraper does not need to be heavy. Since a very light touch works better, I prefer a light-weight scraper. And the harder the metal, the longer it will stay sharp. I prefer CPM 10V scrapers, ground on a 180 grit CBN wheel. If examined under a microscope, the cutting edge of a freshly sharpened negative-rake scraper looks like very fine sandpaper, and it works like sandpaper, except that it can be used with much greater accuracy and delicacy, perfectly preparing the surface before sanding commences. It’s exceptionally easy to remove all irregularities, fine tune curves and shapes, and get that ”perfect” shape. If the turning isn’t “perfect” before sanding, sanding will not improve it. Get it right with the two-step turning process before sanding. You will be impressed with the results.

Above is a photo of some of my negative-rake scrapers. The scrapers are ground at 22.5 degrees top and bottom, so the cutting edge is symmetrical, allowing the scrapers to be used with either side up. The cutting edge is ground to closely match the curve of the surface it will be scraping. When the scraper is ground, the 180 grit CBN grinding wheel forms a burr along the cutting edge. The tool is always addressed to the wood “burr up”. A sharp burr smoothes the wood, refining curves and removing every vestige of tearout, significantly reducing sanding. The scraper must be kept very sharp. The burr wears away quickly, necessitating frequent regrinding. Even though frequent regrinding is necessary to keep the scraper cutting effectively, it is far quicker and easier to smooth wood with a negative-rake scraper than with sandpaper, and the results are far superior.

March 5, 2020

Allen Jensen - Turning a Bowl, From the Tree to the Table

I will show you the process I use to convert locally harvested urban timbers into beautiful salad bowls. Using the wood the right way will ensure the bowl will dry correctly and withstand daily use. I will cover the process from selecting and harvesting the wood, rough turning the blank, Drying, remounting and returning the dry bowl, Sanding, reverse chucking methods, and food safe finishing techniques. Along the way I will cover efficient use of the bowl gouge to remove material quickly, and then cover techniques for clean cutting to reduce sanding. This is a fast paced but in depth demo for anyone interested in turning bowls.

April 9, 2020

Matt Monaco - Yet to be determined